Turquoise green cheek conure


Turquoise Green Cheek Conure

Turquoise green cheek conure: have become very popular birds in US territory. However, they are not to be put in everyone’s hands. I offer you on our site a subjective point of view born from our experience, as well as information & advice obtained from breeders, collected on the Internet and in specialized books. I am fortunate to live daily with many of its parrots and have made many conclusions and observations. It is with joy that I share them with you in the hope of enlightening you as well as possible about these extraordinary Conures. Naturally, any contribution from you is welcome, feel free to comment

Can turquoise green cheek conures talk? yes, The turquoise conure can learn to mimic human speech. and which parrot can speak? and how and why parrots talk also why do parrots’ eyes dilate when they speak? and what is the cheapest parrot that speaks?

Make your Turquoise green cheek conure parrot talk

Green cheek conure turquoise mutation

All you need to know about Green cheek conure turquoise mutation

Transmission of the mutation

The turquoise mutation is a recessive mutation (See transmission).

First appearance in Breeding:

The first Turquoise was bred by Mr. Geert Van Nieuwenhuyse in Belgium.


The turquoise mutation is characterized by a mutation of the feather which becomes turquoise (green with blue reflections) on almost the entire body.

The legs are gray with black nails.


Blue does not exist in Green cheek conure, we are talking about turquoise here. The difference is that turquoise is green Parrot with a more or less intense blue reflection (25 to 75%) whereas the blue mutation for example in Eclectus is totally blue (100%).

Autosomal recessive mutation

The autosomal recessive mutation is a mutation where both male and females can be mutant
If the male or female is a mutant but the other partner is not then 100% of the offspring will be carriers of the mutation.
If there is a mutant parent and a carrier parent then 50% of the offspring will be mutant and 50% of the offspring will be carriers of the mutation.

Recessive mutations: Turquoise, Dilute, Panaché?

Example of mating: Take the example of Turquoise green cheek conure

  • Turquoise X TS (Wild Type) = 100% wild type/turquoise (in 1.0 and 0.1)
  • Turquoise X Turquoise = 100% turquoise (in 1.0 and 0.1)
  • TS/ turquoise X TS/ turquoise = 50% TS, 50% turquoise (in 1.0 and 0.1)
  • Turquoise X TS/ turquoise = 50% turquoise, 50% TS/ turquoise (in 1.0 and 0.1)
  • Legend: 1.0 = Male 0.1 = Female 1.1 Couple

The sex-linked mutation

The sex-linked mutation is a mutation where only the male can be a carrier but both males and females can be mutants.

If the male is mutant then the female chicks will be mutant.

If the female is a mutant then the male chicks will carry the mutation but the females will not.

Sex-linked mutations: Opaline, Cinamon

Coupling example: (take the example of opaline)

  • 1.0 Opaline X 0.1 TS (Wild Type) = 1.0 TS/ Opaline, 0.1 Opaline
  • 1.0 TS X 0.1 Opaline = 1.0 TS/ Opaline, 0.1 TS
  • 1.0 Opaline X 0.1 Opaline = 1.1 Opaline (in male and female)
  • 1.0 TS/ opaline X TS ) 1.0 TS, TS/ Opaline; 0.1 TS, Opaline

NOTE: it is in the previous case that we obtain possible carriers because we cannot differentiate TS from TS/Opaline in males.

Legend: 1.0 = Male 0.1 = Female 1.1 Couple

The autosomal mutation with incomplete dominance

Autosomal incomplete dominance mutation is a mutation where both male and female can be mutant and there are no carriers. The mutation is expressed in Single factor (SF) and Double factor (DF), and the visual change of the bird will intensify in Double factor.

It is enough for one of the parents to be a mutant to come out of the little mutants. Co-dominant mutations: Misty, Violet Factor.

Example of mating: take the example of purple

  • 1.0 TS purple SF X 0.1 TS (same for 1.0 TS X 0.1 TS/purple SF) = 50% TS purple SF, 50% TS
  • 1.0 TS purple SF X 0.1 TS purple SF= 50% TS purple SF, 25% TS purple DF, 25% TS (in 0.1 and 1.1)
  • 1.0 TS purple DF X 0.1 TS = 100% TS purple SF (in 1.0 and 0.1)
  • 1.0 TS Purple DF X 0.1 TS Purple SF = 50% DF, 50% SF
  • 1.0 TS purple DF X 0.1 TS purple DF = 100% DF.

Personal note: The best mating for a good strain is the non-mutant DF X because you get 100% SF by having a non-mutant bird at the start, therefore often of better size and quality.

Legend: 1.0 = Male 0.1 = Female 1.1 Couple

Turquoise conure

turquoise conure

Turquoise conure Details Specifications:

  • Scientific name Pyrrhura molinae
  • Class Aves
  • Order Psittaciformes
  • Family Psittacidae
  • kingdom Animalia Genus Pyrrhura
  • Lifespan 25 to 30 years
  • Size 10 inches long
  • Wing size 5 to 5.5 inches
  • Temperament Affectionate, friendly
  • Colors Bluish green or grey
  • Cage size 24 x 24 x 60 inches

The Turquoise green cheek conure, also known as the Green-cheeked Parakeet turquoise is a Great American Parakeet that has everything of a small parrot. This diurnal is a gregarious and hyperactive bird. Living from 20 to 25 years, this species needs 6 to 8 hours of quiet sleep without a light source per night. turquoise green cheek Conures can be a very noisy parrots.

Measuring 25 to 30 cm for an ideal weight of between 65 and 80g, these are birds that need stimulation. Unaware of the danger, this Great Parakeet is not cold. Rather territorial, if she thinks she is at home or believes herself to be “chief” of the place, other species of birds, dogs, cats,… May be targets of aggression, even if it is not systematic.

This Parakeet is a proud acrobat with a strong temperament who loves to play and solve problems. Thus, they will prefer to look for their food in boxes or other rather than find it in their dispensers or feeders. Very greedy we must be very careful not to spoil them too much otherwise they quickly gain overweight and as for us humans, this is not good for their health or for their longevity  (Sick parrot symptoms).

Turquoise green cheek conure is granivorous and frugivorous birds. Parrot Nutrition and Diet are not limited to this, however, in addition to fruits and seeds,  choose vegetable, extruded, buds, dry bones, and grits. So they have a varied diet, but a lot of things are toxic to them.

An article dedicated to the feeding of Hooked beaks explains this in more detail. These birds also need to chew* on a daily basis in order to wear out their beaks and claws that grow continuously. Perches provided for this purpose or made of branches with bark (be careful not all woods are exploitable, some are toxic, see this article), stones of unmanageable sizes (that birds can neither break nor ingest), stones designed for this purpose are also sold commercially, are essential to them. Indeed, claws and beaks grow continuously, if they are too long, birds can be injured, and no longer be able to feed or drink.

Although almost all of them are unfit to speak, there are a few rare specimens pronouncing a few words in an almost robotic voice. True alarms when a stranger enters the room where they live (unless they are used to receiving regular impromptu visits), they often celebrate sunrise and sunset vocally. In a word, they know how to make themselves heard!

Very “coquettish”, these little parrots like to bathe in clean and fresh water several times a day. This allows them to clean themselves, hunt certain parasites (if they have some but even without, swimming is very appreciated), have fun, and maintain their superb plumage. It is therefore essential to place them, in addition to drinking troughs, enough to satisfy this daily need.

Bathtubs provided for this purpose are sold in pet stores, or even in supermarkets (but not always), but you can use large cups. Note that they frolic and like to play in the water, so they put everywhere, in this the bathtubs marketed are much more practical since equipped with lids and sides however, their great defect is that the birds can not flap their wings as they please and even less go in pairs. For my part, I opted for their comfort rather than ours and our Turquoise green cheek conure arrange the large cup, and saucers, placed at the bottom of the cages (far from the perches) so that they feast. The counterpart is that they splash out of their cage. the very important thing the cage is always kept clean.

Regarding their habitat in captivity, it is possible to have a duo in a cage or aviary because these birds withstand up to -10 ° C provided they have a shelter to protect themselves from the cold of course, but also in summer from the heat and the sun, but we will come back to this a little later. If you opt for a larger cage, which we did since when we started, we lived with 7

birds in the living room (4 Conure, 1 Fischer, 2 Calopsittes), then 10 since the couple of Conure si-contre made us the joy, to make us 3 little ones while we did not think to have broods so early in our beginnings, you have to know and take into account many things.

In addition to the time, you have to devote to them, if there is one thing you need to think about it is, of course, the place! Because for two Conures (I do not recommend taking a single Conure alone otherwise you will have to spend ALL your time taking care of her to make games, keep their company, and make her go out of the cage otherwise … You may have a lot of screaming at home.

In case of trouble these birds can be very garish or subject to behavioral disorders such as aggressiveness, hyper-destruction*, stinging * ,…), your cage must be a minimum of 90cm long x 90cm high x 50cm deep. This is a minimum, but if you can do more it’s always better. We opted for our couples for cages 1m long x 1m high x 60cm deep (I propose the plans of my Man soon on the blog). To this must be added a nest year-round because, as said above, these birds are nidicolous*. Beware of pet stores that sell you what they want! As novices, we made the mistake.

Our second couple from Conures had a nest bought on the advice of a seller of a famous animal sign, more than 3 times too small for their needs. From the day my Man made them and installed their nest on the model of that of our first couple, our birds began to live their breeding period. So I do not know if there is a better, but here are the measures that advise you and that work with us: an exit hole of 6cm of ø x x x. My Man’s plans will be available soon.

There are two schools, those that place the nest in the cage and those that place it outside. In order to preserve the space of the cage, we opted for this second solution. In this case, you will need a good closure of the lid or failing that, a weight on it under penalty of escapes.

These birds are certainly climbers, but also, as we have observed, birds that love to destroy and fly. You, therefore, need to provide in the cage a space without obstacles so that they can fly, but also enough to satisfy their desires to climb. For my part, I use branches that I often change of different diameters, sometimes fixed, sometimes “mobile”, this also allows them to express their need to destroy at a lower cost.

Of course, fixed perches, swings, ladders, and other accessories are sold commercially, but this comes at a cost because sooner or later will be destroyed. Of course, metal games are also sold. To satisfy their visceral need to destroy and chew, I make them parrot toys and wooden toys, designed for but again, there are some in pet stores. I also offer you some ideas for those who would like to make it themselves. As said, they need to be stimulated intellectually, and physically.

To do this, simply put food in “problem-solving” games such as lids to lift, things to search, open, and push, new fresh Parrot food, Parrot food pellets, or seed extract for a parrot and mobile hanging elements holding treats (I offer you some ideas here) that are made or bought. The cage must be close to a source of natural light or from bulbs specially adapted to their needs and protected from drafts.

It will also have to be quiet. Add to this the elements mentioned above and, as many exits as possible out of the cage in the room where it is (little tips to bring your Great parakeets back to their cage never place food outside) and we have obtained birds well in their feathers!

turquoise conures

Turquoise Green cheek conure colors

Turquoise green cheeked conures have bodies blue-green and green. The breast feathers are grayish The ends of the wing feathers have a highly iridescent quality to them if left unclipped. the tail feathers are gray.

Turquoise conure price

The Turquoise Green cheek conure is a rare mutation. The turquoise conure price ranges from $600 to $800 based on the Breeders and owner and Location. The current cost of these green cheek turquoise conures in the US is $800 for babiesand the adult price is more.

SOURCE:Mckelly Ang

List of Turquoise Green Cheek Conure Care Supplies and Costs

Habitat $120
Food  $20
Treats $15 a month
Habitat Substrate $10 a month
Food/Water Dishes $10
Perches $5
Toys $10
Mineral Block Chews $5
Spray  Bottle $10
Nail Clippers $10
Vitamins / Supplements $5
Vet Visits (Routine/ Surprise) $60 per visit and the tests and surgeries, etc

Turquoise green cheek conure lifespan

Its life expectancy in captivity can go up to 25 years if it is raised in good conditions. But turquoise green cheek conure parrots can live up to 30 years in captivity when they are well cared for

Turquoise green cheek conure gender difference

There is no sexual dimorphism visible difference according to sex, in this in the turquoise green cheek conure species. A DNA test will therefore make it possible to determine with certainty whether your future companion is a male or a female.

SOURCE:Poodles and Parrots

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